Shoyu (soy sauce, 醤油 しょうゆ) is surely the most known seasoning of Japan and one of the icons of Japanese food. Since I was young, I have had the ingredients almost everyday in Japan. A bottle of Shoyu is in every dining table across Japan. However we do not know so much about shoyu actually. It may be too close food for us, Japanese.
Luckly I had a chance to learn about it from the master of Shoyu, called Mr. Mantaro Takahashi.
Here is basic information about shoyu or soy sauce.
Major ingredients: Soy beans (mainly made outside of Japan…) wheat and salt
How it is produced?
Steamed soy beans are mixed with roasted and crashed wheat. “Tanekouji” (種麹), spores of rice malt (its academic name, Asperigillus oryzae) is added and leads to fermentation.
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The fermented paste is called “Kouji” (麹) and salted water is poured to barrels of Kouji. The thick liquid is called “Moromi” (諸味) which will be left for a while until it is matured.
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When Moromi is matured in a barrel, it becomes very fresh “shoyu”(醤油, soy sauce). But it is not yet the same one with which we can find at glossary stores or supermarkets.
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The fresh shoyu is heated to 80 to 85 C degree as the final process to stop frementation. Then finally shoyu is made up!
What types of shoyu?
Shoyu or soy sauce is categorized by difference in production ways or in ingredient content ratio.
These fives are major categories of shoyu as below...
From left to right, Koikuchi Honjozo / Koikuchi Kongo / Usukuchi / Sai-Shikomi / Tamari
<Koikuchi Honjozo / 濃口本醸造>
The word “Koikuchi” (濃口) represents thick flavor. It is the most popular and common type of shoyu. The ratio of soy beans and wheat is 50 %/ 50 %. If you can find a bottle of soy sauce at supermarkets or Japanese restaurants outside of Japan, probably it is this type of shoyu.
<Koikuchi Kongo / 濃口混合>
When amino acid is added to shoyu, it is called Koikuchi Kongo shoyu. It can be also categorised as processed soy sauce (しょうゆ加工品). Sweet taste is unique point of Koikuchi Kongo shoyu. It is often used in Kyushu (九州) region and surrounding area. This type of shoyu is well matched with cooked Japanese rice and raw egg.
<Usukuchi / 淡口>
The name Usukuchi (bland) shown, the color is lighter because of shorter fermentation period. Instead higher ration of salt water is used in production compared with Koikuchi, thicker taste soy sauce. Hence Usukuchi shoyu is a bit salty and it is the best type of soy sauce to make dressing for salad for example.
<Sai-Shikomi / 再仕込み>
If translated in my definition, sai-shikomi means “double-matured”. It is taken double-long period for maturing process. The flavor is thick as Tamari is. Sai-shikomi shoyu is suitable for stew or other cooking way of long time, as the flavor remains even after heating for long minutes. The secret way of enjoy Sai-shikomi shoyu is to put it on top of “ice cream”
Can you believe that? if no, let's just try it
<Tamari / 溜 >
Tamari is thicker and more viscous than Koikuchi type. It is produced with lower ratio of salt water and higher ratio (4 times amout of wheat) of soy beans. Inspite of the thick flavor, it is less in salt. The rich flavor of Tamari shoyu is well macthed with meat and lean fish like tuna.
More than a half of shoyu consumption is produced at large factories by major shoyu producers, while over a thousand of small shoyu makers are scattered across Japan.
My shoyu teacher Mr. Mantaro Takahashi introduces tens of traditional and hand-made shoyu producers on his website, Shokunin Shoyu (職人醤油, Shoyu Masters). These shoyu selections are based on his professional knowledge and experiences visited Shoyu studios or factories. These hand-made shoyu can be ordered by 100 ml bottle size through the Shokunin Shoyu website. The website is Japanese version only so far. But Mr. Takahashi welcomes order in English and product shipment out from Japan. Please visit the website if you feel like exploring wide selections of soy sauce made in very traditional ways by great masters.
Website: Shokunin Shoyu 職人醤油
In addition, Shokunin Shoyu selection items are available at some department stores and select-shop in Tokyo.
* Mitsukoshi department Nihombashi Main store
* Seibu department Ikebukuro 6th floor "be my Gift" corner
*Cibone Aoyama (Aoyama Bell Commons Basement 1st floor)
