We covered two recommendable restaurants in Naha, the capital of Okinawa. Both are located in Kokusai-dori, very heart of the southern city. Momogami (百甕) features local distilled alcohol, Awamori, while at Gyuya (牛屋) local specialty branded beef and pork are available. Well, what else should we try in Okinawa?
One answer is today’s feature, Okinawa soba (沖縄そば). Soba (Japanese traditional noodle) in Okinawa is a bit different from what we see in the main land of Japan. Usually buckwheat is used as main ingredient for soba in other parts of Japan. Then the color of noodle is gray in many cases. On the other hand, soba in local style of Okinawa is made from flour that makes the noodle off-white color rather than dark gray. The soup for Okinawa soba is richer in oil compared with one used in the main land, because pork is used to take the stock soup.
Well, Ten to Ten (てんtoてん) is a popular Okinawa soba restaurants among locals as well as domestic tourists, even though it is situated out of central town. It is close to Shikina-en, a Chinese garden. It will be a good idea to take a stroll for about 10 minutes from the garden to Ten to Ten through a street having grave yards in local style along both sides.
To be honest, it was not easy even for a Japanese to find the popular soba restaurant for the first time. Please be noted but it is still worth to visiting it.
The small house completely!! covered in vines is the restaurant Ten to Ten. It is a block away from a busy street where local buses are going and running around.
The restaurant inside has an atmosphere like a local residence or an art gallery. You will find the cozy air there anytime, in any season. It will be a cool oasis with wind in summer and be a warm place with sunlight in winter.
As for the menu, we do not have to worry so much. It has a unique choice as main dish.
Mokkai Soba (木灰すば, written in local spelling) is solely offered as main dish. So it is what we should order anyway there. The word, Mokkai (木灰, wood ash) is rare to be found in Tokyo. Water taken from burned and soaked local species woods contains rich minerals and it is used to make the noodle by mixing it with flour. Anyway, the flat noodle looks hand-made (as it is) and like fettuccine in Italy. Otherwise it reminds us Kishimen(きしめん), another popular local noodle in Nagoya.
Well, let’s taste.
It provides rich oily soup with char-siu (sliced pork). Some might feel it more close to Ramen rather soba in mainland.
Surely it is a nice bowl of meal and is worth walking a bit from Shikinaen (識名園) garden or local bus stop.
Some Japanese would not like Okinawa soba but here we understand that is because they have not tasted the best one. We wish you agree with us.
Ten to Ten also offera interesting side dishes such as Kodaimai Onigiri (Rice ball with “ancient rice”) and very unique and impressive local style tea, buku-buku cha (bubbling tea).
By the way, Shikinaen, a part of UNESCO world heritage, is also very nice garden to walk around and feel the season. It is a Chinese style garden whose original was created in 18th century. The area over 40,000 square meters is filled with trees, flowers, a pond and other pieces of nature as well as some traditional buildings.
When we visited on January, we could see many spices of flower including Sakura!!
Restaurant name : Ten to Ten (てん to てん)
Address: 4-5-2 Shikina, Naha-city, Okinawa
