About food in Japan

Castle Town Odawara (小田原)

Odawara (小田原) is a castle town in Kanagawa prefecture, situating between Tokyo or Yokohama and Hakone Hot spring resort (箱根温泉地). It takes only 35 minutes by Shinkansen or about 70 minutes journey even by JR local express trains (Tokaido Line) from Tokyo. It must be the most closest castle town from Tokyo, apart from Edo castle or Imperial Palace in central Tokyo.

 

Odawara Castle is 10 mintes walk from Odawara train station, following the town's main street to the castle gate. 

 

Top floors of Odawara Castle is accessible as exhibition halls and observation deck. So going through to the castle garden, climbing up to the top!!

 

At the garden surrounding Odawara Castle, on February, you will find plum (Ume, 梅) blossoms which is one of the most popular tourist attractions of Odawara Castle for local people. The weather is still cold on the month but it is a sign of coming Spring.  

Enjoying the nature plants and looking at the castle from different sides, don't give up going up to the castle top!! 

 

We also found monkeies at the castle park just before the castle main tower... 

 

 

 

 

It will be a good half-day exercise to climb up to the castle top and walk around the castel park.

 

The reward of climing up exercise is

the VIEW from the TOP of Odawara Castel

 

 Odawara town, Pacific Ocean and mountains

You will find Odawara town's unique location

in narrow area between Ocean and mountains.

It was strategically choosen by former Samurai governors.

 

The exhibition halls inside the castle main tower is also recommendable to spend around 20- 30minutes to watch the interesting collections from Edo period. Cultural works, folk objects at the exhibition will tell you tradition and life of Japanese in Edo era. 

After enjoying the beautiful shape of historical castle, let's find FOOD or Sweets in Odawara.

Japanese traditional sweets have been often cultivated by local governors as a part of rich local culture.

Here we introduce two most interesting sweets souvenir in Odawara.

 

Firstly from the souvenir shop on the top floor of Odawara Castle,

Buke Yokan (武家ようかん, Samurai family sweet beans cake)

  

Each different family emblem with name of Samurai

is attached to each box of Yokan.

As it has tens choices of Samurai name and emblems,

even if you don't know each of them,

it must be fun to look around the variaties of emblems and colors.

 

Next our finding is from a small local sweet boutique, called Fugetsudo (風月堂).

It is less than 5 minutes walk from Odawara Castle and along one of the town's main street.

Fugetsudo is a popular name for Japanese traditional sweet shops. You could find a shop with same name in other towns. The most famous one is in Kobe and sells "Gaufre" cookies. Each of them is different and not a chain affiliate. Just for your information.

 

 

 

Castle Monaka(城下町もなか, Joka machi monaka)

by Fugetsudo Odawara

Amazing small piece of Monaka (sweet beans cake with shells)

in shape of CASTLE!!!

It's a great Japanese art work,

which you can bring back to your country.

(have to keep in a box, so as not to be broken though)

 

It will be an interesting full-day excursion to go out from Tokyo by Shinkansen or local JR train and to walk around Odawara Castle as well as the old town surrounding the castle, discovering traditional products like above.

 

Odawara Castle  

Nearest station: Odawara (JR and Odakyu lines)

View Larger Map

 

Shop name: Fugetsudo Odawara (風月堂)

Address: 1-10-20 Honcho, Odawara-city, Kanagawa

View Larger Map

Ota Market visitor course (大田市場見学者コース)

In Tokyo, it becomes cold day by day. The year-end of 2012 is coming soon.

The month of December is the busiest season for food markets, because during this season Japanese locals have some big events such as Christmas party, year end party and new year family gathering. Then this month's feature by About Food in Japan is "food MARKET" in Tokyo.

As our series of posts last year, Tsukiji fish market is very well known among tourists. But it is not only Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. We will introduce a few other markets of Tokyo on this month.

By the way, for those who plan to visit Tsukiji Market, please keep in mind that tsuna auction observation area is close out from tourists until 19 January 2013 for security reason due to the busiest season for professional dealers.  

For more information, please check announcement in English:

 http://www.shijou.metro.tokyo.jp/english/market/tsukiji.html

 

Well, let's back to a market introduction for today's post, Ota Market.

Ota Market is the largest market in Japan for fruit & vegetable and flower products, locating the bay side of West Tokyo, between Haneda Airport and central town. The share dealt by Ota Market is around a half of bussiness in Tokyo for these fresh products from land. While Tsukiji Market is the largest for fishery products, Ota Market also has fish & seasfood area.

Among all wholesale food markets in Tokyo, only Ota Market set up "Visitor Course" where tourists are welcomed to visit and watch inside of the wholesale market.

Let's see the largest market in Japan, following the visitor course with photos.

First how to get there, it will be easier to take a public bus from JR Omori station　(two stops away from Shinagawa). 

• The bus to Ota Market (大田市場) departs from East Exit bus terminal next to train station, every 30 minutes or more during early morning.   
• It takes around 20 minutes from Omori train station to Ota Market.
• The last stop is for the start point of Visitor Course, while the bus stops at 3 points in the market. 

We put a link for the bus time table here for your information.

From Omori Station to Ota Market Weekday (平日) & Saturday (土曜日)

http://timetablenavi.keikyu-bus.co.jp/dia/timetable/web/51121/1140261011/25/

 

After 20 minutes, you will arrive Ota Market.

First, go inside to this building (事務棟/Jimuto, Office wing)

in front of the bus stop.

 

The visitor course starts from the second floor of this building.

On the floor, visitor center is also located.

But it will open only from 9a.m.　

 No entrance fee is required. 

 If you arrive ealier than 9 a.m., no one would be there to help you.

Anyway, feel free to have the tour by own!

The visitor course starts from this passage way connecting 

 between the office wing and market main area.

  

 

Some information at the market is available in English, Korean and Chinese.

The visitor course goes around Fruit Wing then to Fisheries Wing.

 

Here is the Fruit & Vegetable Wing, the largest market in Japan!

   

 

Vegetable and fruit auction can be found between 6:50a.m. to around 7:30a.m.

It's the best timing to visit Ota Market.

We can see fruit auction behind the stand.

Small scale of auction is also taken place here and there.

 

We found Melon auction!

Melon is considered as a product in Summer season in general.

But during Winter, the fruit is dealt mainly as very expensive gift.

  

 

 

Many of these box are for an autumn icon "sweet potato."

 

    

All box and products are neatly piled up!!

 

Please don't miss the sign for Visitor Courtse (見学者コース) on the floor or steps.

  


 The route takes you to the top roof of the Wings toward Fisheries Wing.

 

 

Although fisheries area is not so big here unlike Tsukiji Market,

some similar scenes can be found from the Visitor Course on the upper floor.

Big scallops are ready for sale!!

 

Finally it reaches to the end of Visitor Course for two wings, Vegetable & Fruit, Fisheries.

Let's go back to the start point, Office Wing.

 

On the way back, if you are lucky....

 

you will see Mt. Fuji from the roof top parking area.

 

If you are interested in Flower market, out of Food category though,

it is also on the Visitor Course.

Flowe Wing is about 5 minutes away from the Vegetable & Fruit market.

Make sure the way on the map at the Market's entrance gate.

 

 Going through under the highway, here it is the entrance of Flower Market.

 

Flower Auction is made with very modern computer system.

  

 

The market is also supported by amazing and modern logistics system.

Flowers in box are automatically running around the market.

  

 

We found some seasonal products for December,

christmas tree and traditional New year decoration.

  

If you have a tour through from Vegetable Wing to Flower Wing since early morning, you must be hungry, like we did.

Let's go back to the start point, Offic Wing (Jimuto, 事務棟) for Vegetable & Fruit market to find some nice breakfast.

We will introduce a couple of Japanese restaurants in Ota Market on the next post.

To be continue....

Ota Market Official site -  http://www.shijou.metro.tokyo.jp/english/market/ota.html

Related posts :

about Tsukiji Fish Market　

http://aboutfoodinjapan.weblogs.jp/blog/2011/04/tsukiji-market.html

about restaurants in Ota Market

http://aboutfoodinjapan.weblogs.jp/blog/2012/12/what-to-have-at-ota-market.html

Kamiyacho Open Terrace by Komyoji Temple(光明寺) Tokyo

The months of May and June are good time to enjoy outside terrace in Tokyo, when the weather is fine. Today's recommendable spot is a bit unique open air terrace where you can enjoy food & drink you bring.

Kamiyacho Open Terrace is 30 seconds walk from subway Kamiyacho (神谷町) station on Hibiya-line in central business district of Tokyo. It is actually a part of a temple, Komyoji (光明寺), building. 

The temple's master (surely open-minded) started sharing the terrace space with public in 2005, aiming at making it as a public space like a park and at inviting people living and working in the area freely to the temple. The temple offers the terrace space in front of the main hall with several tables and chairs and it welcomes you bringing your lunch pack, working with a note PC or reading a book.  As long as you do not mind viewing the temple's cemetery below your eyes, feel the silence and breeze going through greenery scene. Sometimes during weekdays, a monk serves tea and sweets to visitors. He is also happy to answer to vistors' question when his time is allowed.

 

The temple's main hall is also on a side of the terrace.

Don't forget to pray and to say hello & thank to the buddha

 

Kamiyacho is about 15 minutes walk to Tokyo Tower

From the temple terrace the upper part of the tower is visble. 

 

 

Several tables and chairs are set to enjoy the space. 

Business lunch hour 12:00 - 13:00,

these chairs and tables might be filled by local business people enjoying their lunch.

 

 

If you would like to get local style lunch on the way to Kamiyacho Open Terrace by Komyoji Temple, we recommend you drop by "Yatai Deli" (屋台Deli, "food stall" Deli). The take-away lunch box seller is located on the underground floor (B1) of Toranomon MT40 building, directly connected to Exit 3, Kamiyacho subway station. Varieties of Japanese style box meal are placed on small stalls and all are covered by clear plastic top with a price tag. Lunch boxes are sold at reasonable price starting from Yen390 and none exceeds Yen 1000. (as long as we know...) So even for non-Japanese speaker, it will be easy and comfortable to try and to choose one for you. 

 

Don't worry even if Japanese lunch box is not your feeling. Two convenience stores are available at the crossing corners of Kamiyacho subway station. 

And wherever you get food, your cooperation is much appreciated to bring back waste and not to leave it in the temple. 

Komyoji Temple provides information about Kamiyacho Open Terrace in English. For more and the latest infromation, please visit its official blog.

Komyoji Temple  Kamiyacho Open Terrace

Official site: http://www.komyo.net/kot/english/

View 神谷町光明寺 in a larger map

 

Map for Yatai Deli at Toranomon 40MT building

View Larger Map

 

Alternative spot in similar location:  Belgian bakery cafe - Le Pain Quotidien

 http://aboutfoodinjapan.weblogs.jp/blog/2011/06/belgian-bakery-cafe-le-pain-quotidien.html

Two recommendable exhibitions in Tokyo for this summer

For those who consider travel to Tokyo in this summer holiday season, About Food in Japan recommends following two exhibitions to visit. 

 

1. TEMA HIMA: the Art of Living in Tohoku

At: 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, Tokyo Midtown, Roppongi

Date until: 26 August 2012

Official site: http://www.2121designsight.jp/en/program/temahima/

Following the first exhibition program with the theme "Clothing (衣)" last year and produced by the world-renowned fasion designer Issey Miyake, this year the second version focuses on "food and living spaces." The exhibition intoroduces rich life-culture and tradition of Tohoku region through a movie, photos and displays of products, ingredients, parts etc. They are brought to the gallery space in Rippongi through the eyes of designers, food director, journarist, film artists and photographer. The exhibition is not simply a showcase of the Japanese traditional culture and life-style but can be considered as an art program extracting aesthetic of daily life inherited in Tohoku region.

At the entrance, make sure to get a leaflet in English, explaining each of 55 works presented. It's amazing even for Japanese like us to know how many kinds of traditional food culture remain in Tohoku region. You will find how traditional Japanese food are prepared with hands of local people. Take around 2hours for visit in order to watch the whole of program fully including the film.   

 

2. GOSSE DE PEINTRE BEAT TAKESHI KITANO

At: Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Shinjuku

Date until: 2 September 2012

Official site: http://www.btk2012.jp/

The exhibition was originally presented in Paris by "Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain" to introduce art works by Takeshi Kitano who is mostly known as comedian in Japan while is recognized rather as film director in other parts of the world. As Mr. Kitano described himself, taste of his painting has underlying influence by his father who had been a house painter. While showing his another aspecct as the most popular comedian in Japan, he also demonstrates his art talent that could be even close to Pablo Picasso or Leonardo da Vinci. At least looking at his works, we will see his versatility from comedian, film director, actor as already known to painter, very unique art producer.

Yes, this blog is about food in Japan. The exhibition seems not to be related to food so much. Actually he produced a food stall and products for it as one of the exhibition works. It is at the last of the exhibition work list, No. 83 "The Keep-Hunger-Away-Buddha." It's a kind of joke (I guess at least) which he often shows on TV programs. On the underground floor of Tokyo Opera City, where the art gallery is situated, a small stall stands facing to the central courtyard. The stall is visible from the gallery window.

Please don't miss to find it

Then what are sold there...

cakes in shape of buddha

It's up to you how much you believe

the story Mr. Kitano telling for the cake.

 

In any case, enjoy your summer holiday in Tokyo

 

Enishi (縁) Art meet modern Japanese tea ceremony exhibition

Modern Japanese tea ceremony exhibition called Enishi will be taken place at Seibu department in Shibuya during 4th to 24th October 2011.

The word, Enishi (縁) represents tie, link or encounter among people or between human and things. The younger generation tea ceremony master, Mr. Matsumura, introduces the world of modern Japanese tea ceremony, collaborating with modern art creators. Followings are what you will find at the exhibition "Enishi, Art meet modern Japanese tea ceremony", taken place at 3 different exhibitions corners all on either the 5th or 8th floor B-wing Seibu department Shibuya.

*Tea ceremony room brought to the department store.

 On weekend afternoons, in the room, tea ceremony will be taken place several times. For the ceremony, modern tea making tools created by young 20 potters will be used and Japanese traditional sweets also made by new generations of Japanese sweets (和菓子) masters, "wagashi asobi" will be served to the ceremony guests.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Introduction of tea ceremony in modern lifestyle

Combining with materials in life; clothes, sweets, tea making tools and housing, new ways to enjoy tea ceremony in daily life will be introduced.

 

*Tea bowls, tea making tools and decoration objects for tea rooms will be presented under the theme "Neo-Japonisme and Avant-garde" in a gallery.

 

Related links

Enishi (縁) Art meet modern Japanese tea ceremony information on Avant-Garde Cha Kai site(Japanese)

http://www.ava-cha.com/2011/09/21/3479

 

Shuhally (Japanese) - Tea ceremony school by the master, Mr. Matsumura who plays the main role of the exhibition producer.

http://www.shuhally.jp

 

Wagashi Asobi - Young Japanese sweets maker who provides tea ceremony sweets for the exhibition.

http://wagashiasobi.wordpress.com

 

 

Exhibition: Enishi (縁) Art meet modern Japanese tea ceremony

Date: 4th October to 24th October 2011

At: 5th and 8th floor B-wing, Seibu department store Shibuya

Address: 21-1 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

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Tsukiji Market update

 

Tsukiji Market (築地市場) re-opened its tuna auction visit for tourists from this tuesday. It had been suspended since 11th March 2011 when the East Japan earthquake occured.

As per their instruction for the early morning Tuna auction visiting on the official site and leaflet available at the market entrance, followings are guideline announced on 25th July 2011. 

*To see Tuna auction "from the special observation area" on early morning...

Please make a reservation

- at "Fish Information Center" (おさかな普及センター)  located next to "Kachidoki Gate" (勝どき門) of Tsukiji Market. The gate is on Harumi Street.

- Reservation starts from 5:00A.M.  (Only for the day of visit acceptable, no adavance reservation possible)  

- The market is able to accept only 120 visitors per day. These visitors will be allocated into two time slots by first-come-first-served basis.

    1. for the first 60 visitors - from 5:25 A.M. to 5:50 A.M. 

    2. for the 2nd 60 visitors - from 5:50 A.M. to 6:15 A.M.

*Please kindly keep in mind that it might be changed without prior notice depending on the various situation related the market. We recommend you check the latest information on its official website.

Tsukiji Market official site: http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm 

Tokyo Tourism Information News:  http://www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp/english/administration/tsukiji_201107.html

 

If you are not able to become within the first come 120 people or are reluctant to wake up so early morning, still you have a chance to feel the vital atmosphere of the market and to enjoy fresh seafood there. Please visit my previous posts about Tsukiji Market and restaurants there, as linked below.

Tsukiji Market (築地市場) 

http://aboutfoodinjapan.weblogs.jp/blog/2011/04/tsukiji-market.html

RestaurSushi Dai, Tsukiji Market (寿司大 築地市場)

http://aboutfoodinjapan.weblogs.jp/blog/2011/05/sushi-dai-in-tsukiji-market.html

Takahashi in Tsukiji Market (高はし, 築地市場）

http://aboutfoodinjapan.weblogs.jp/blog/2011/05/takahashi-in-tsukiji-market.html 

 

Accommodation recommendable to visit Tsukiji Market

They are all withing walking distance to the market.

Mitsui Garden Premier Ginza

三井ガーデンホテル銀座プレミア

 

 Courtyard Marriott Ginza Tobu

コートヤード・マリオット　銀座東武ホテル

 

Conrad Tokyo

コンラッド東京

 

Park Hotel Tokyo 

パークホテル東京

 

Royal Park Shiodome Tower 

ロイヤルパーク汐留タワー

 

Tokyo New Hankyu Hotel Tsukiji 

東京新阪急ホテル築地

Tsukiji Market (築地市場)

We visited one of the most popular tourist spots in Tokyo, Tsukiji Ｍarket (築地市場) this week. It must be one of the most exciting experience for food lovers visiting Tokyo. It is same even for us who live in Tokyo and other parts of Japan!

Here for those who has never visited there, I do summarize about Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, in most cases known as "Tsukiji fish market" internationally.

About Tsukiji Market 

- Opened in 1935 and one of eleven public wholesale markets in Tokyo.

- As fish and seafood market (魚市場, uo-ichiba), it is the biggest in the world

- Located central Tokyo, a five-minute-walk from Ginza which is known for the most luxury shopping streets.

- As already known, fishery products are mainly traded. In addition, fruits and vegetables section is also in the market.

- Basically the market is for professional buyers, retailers and restaurant operators (non-professional visitors are allowed to go into some area in the market)

- Close Sunday, national holidays and some Wednesday. Please check their business calender before your visit.

http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/etc/calendar/2011.html

It is in Japanese. At least the market is "OPEN" on the dates of clear or white colour box  (開市日=Market open date) as well as a few dates in blue (臨時開市日=Occasional market open date)

Current issues around Tsukiji Market

- Tokyo Metropolitan government and Tsukiji Market are planning to move the market site to a new location in Toyosu (豊洲) area due to shortage of space and decrepit buildings and facilities while increasing business demand. It is still controversy by opponents of relocation because of land safety issues remain and so on.

- Large decrease of international visitors negatively impacting on the restaurant business in Tsukiji Market and surrounding, after the big earthquake and tsunami in Tohoku (東北)and Kanto (関東) regions on 11th March 2011.

- Serious damage on one of the largest fishery business area, Sanriku coast (三陸海岸) in Tohoku by tsunami has changed supplying activities and products appear on the market

What is expected for non-professional visitors, including tourists, at Tsukiji Market

... in order to avoid disturbing the market workers and having unexpected physical injury for both visitors and suppliers

 

Area: 

Some area is restricted from non-professional visitors (tourists). Please follow the instructions by the market.

     So far Tuna Auction (maguro seri, マグロのせり) area is NOT open to visitors after the big earthquake happened on 11th March 2011.

      For the latest update, please visit its official site. Information in English is also available. 

     http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm

Move around by a small group of 5 or less number of people to avoid blocking a passage.

Keep always watching your way around because the market workers are running around, often with "high-speed" motor wagon, on the site.

Photo: 

According to the blog by Tsukijiro-san, a frequent visitor of Tsukiji Market and a popular Japanese blogger who kindly showed us around the market on the day and who consulted with security staff for this issue at the market,

Tsukijiro-san's blog in Japanese: http://tsukijigo.cocolog-nifty.com

NO FLASH please, where "cutting" knives are often used by workers, it is very danger to use flash light in front of staff working with a cutting knif. 

It is allowed to take private photos in the market but please kindly pay enough attention and avoid disturbing market workers. 

Some shops or restaurants set up their own photo-taken policy. (ex: no photo please, allowed only limited occasions etc) In that case, please kindly follow their instruction. 

Uploading photos to websites or SNS is OK as long as it appears private photos and it is done under the photo-taken policy of each shop.

Other recommendations for visiting Tsukiji Market

"Dress code" - should be "compact" and "tight" (without big frill or long stole), no sandal or any kind of open-toe shoes. Big luggage should be left out from the market.

Let me post a sign boad at the entrance of Tsukiji Market for additional information. It appears clearly what is expected...

  

Time - around 9 a.m. to 10 a.m is a good time to visit the fish market. Around the time, the market is less crowded and the market workers are more relaxed toward their business closing time 11 a.m. However from around 10.a.m., some whole-sellers start clearning and closing their stands. 

If you luckily have accommodation with kitchen facility in Tokyo, it is a good idea to buy some fresh fish or seafood at the market and bring them to your base for cooking. Some whole-sellers in the market are happy to sell their products to non-professional buyers. In that case, these shops are likely to display price tags besides their products. 

We found fish from Morikoka (盛岡), Tohoku region

Jonai (場内) or Jogai (場外) ?

In addition to Tsukiji "Jonai" (場内, inside of the market), what I told as above, is basically for professional trades. On the other hand, out of Jonai area is called Jogai (場外, outside) which is a commercial area more for non-professional buyers. Even in the area, you will be able to enjoy visiting seafood or sushi restaurants and shopping around fresh food stores etc.    

While walking around in Jogai are,

we happened to find the Katsuobushi (鰹節, dried bonite) shop,

Akiyama Shouten (秋山商店),

which has been featured in the film "eatrip" introduced my previous post a year ago. 

 

Soon I will post a couple of other repors about restaurants in Tsukiji Market following this post on basic information about Tsukiji Market.

Related link: 

Tsukiji Market official site (English version)

  http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm

Tsukiji Market business calendar for 2011 (Japanese version)

 http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/etc/calendar/2011.html

"OPEN" on the dates of clear or white colour box  (開市日=Market open date) as well as a few dates in blue (臨時開市日=Occasional market open date)

Wikipedia Tsukiji fish market http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsukiji_fish_market

Tsukijiro-san's blog in Japanese http://tsukijigo.cocolog-nifty.com

 

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