About food in Japan

Made in Tokyo French - Restaurant I (レストランI) by Keisuke Matsushima

The Japanese chef, Keisuke Matsushima opened his French restaurant in Nice, France in 2002 and the restaurant "Keisuke Matsushima" has been awarded one Michelin star * since 2006.

In 2009, Mr. Matsushima opened his new restaurant in Tokyo. Restaurant I features "local food" of Tokyo and surroundings with its philosophy "local production for local consumption; in-season production for in-season consumptions"(地産地消・旬産旬消). "Local production for local consumption" is not easy at cosmopolitan Tokyo. While we live in Tokyo, we rarely find "local" food of this extremely modernized city. It must be a great work by the prestigious French chef to collect fine quality vegetables and other ingredients and to produce dishes for the upscale French restaurant. And it achieved in gaining a honor of one Michelin star * in 2011!

 

This month I had a chance to taste some special dishes there. Here are some of them.

 

Terrine of vegetables and fois gras, sauce of Miso.

The vegetables are from Kanto region, surrounding Tokyo.

 

 

 Soup of vegetable in-season from Kanto region with pork "Tokyo X"

The taste of soup is very complex from several kinds of vegetables cooked for long time. It is a French dish but we felt that it is like a Japanese meal because of the ingredients usually used for Japanese cooking. It is a fantastic mixture and work.

 

 

Beef stew "I" style with burdock "Takinogawa"(from Tokyo)

 

 

The restaurant also offers "local" alcohol for their local-production dishes. It has wide selections of Japanese wine... I have never seen such a long list of Japanese production...

Koshu Grace Kayagatake (茅ヶ岳)

Fruity but dry nice white wine...

 

 

After the surprising dishes, herb tea is not an exception. The tea is made from mixed herb from Kanto region!  Great thanks to the harvest...

 

 

 

 

 

That is an alternative good choice to enjoy taste of local food in Tokyo. 

 

Restaurant name: Restaurant I

Address: Park Court Jingumae 1-4-20 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Website (with English and French version and online seat reservation via Opentable!)

http://www.restaurant-i.jp

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Shoyu (醤油, soy sauce) - at website Shokunin Shoyu (職人醤油)

Shoyu (soy sauce, 醤油　しょうゆ) is surely the most known seasoning of Japan and one of the icons of Japanese food. Since I was young, I have had the ingredients almost everyday in Japan. A bottle of Shoyu is in every dining table across Japan. However we do not know so much about shoyu actually. It may be too close food for us, Japanese.

Luckly I had a chance to learn about it from the master of Shoyu, called Mr. Mantaro Takahashi.

Here is basic information about shoyu or soy sauce.

Major ingredients: Soy beans (mainly made outside of Japan…) wheat and salt

 

How it is produced?

Steamed soy beans are mixed with roasted and crashed wheat. “Tanekouji” (種麹), spores of rice malt (its academic name, Asperigillus oryzae) is added and leads to fermentation.

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The fermented paste is called “Kouji” (麹) and salted water is poured to barrels of Kouji. The thick liquid is called “Moromi” (諸味) which will be left for a while until it is matured.

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When Moromi is matured in a barrel, it becomes very fresh “shoyu”(醤油, soy sauce). But it is not yet the same one with which we can find at glossary stores or supermarkets.

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The fresh shoyu is heated to 80 to 85 C degree as the final process to stop frementation. Then finally shoyu is made up!

 

What types of shoyu?

Shoyu or soy sauce is categorized by difference in production ways or in ingredient content ratio.

These fives are major categories of shoyu  as below...

From left to right, Koikuchi Honjozo / Koikuchi Kongo / Usukuchi / Sai-Shikomi / Tamari

 

<Koikuchi Honjozo / 濃口本醸造>

The word “Koikuchi” (濃口) represents thick flavor. It is the most popular and common type of shoyu. The ratio of soy beans and wheat is 50 %/ 50 %. If you can find a bottle of soy sauce at supermarkets or Japanese restaurants outside of Japan, probably it is this type of shoyu.

 

<Koikuchi Kongo / 濃口混合>

When amino acid is added to shoyu, it is called Koikuchi Kongo shoyu. It can be also categorised as processed soy sauce (しょうゆ加工品). Sweet taste is unique point of Koikuchi Kongo shoyu. It is often used in Kyushu (九州) region and surrounding area. This type of shoyu is well matched with cooked Japanese rice and raw egg.

 

<Usukuchi / 淡口>

The name Usukuchi (bland) shown, the color is lighter because of shorter fermentation period. Instead higher ration of salt water is used in production compared with Koikuchi, thicker taste soy sauce. Hence Usukuchi shoyu is a bit salty and it is the best type of soy sauce to make dressing for salad for example.

 

<Sai-Shikomi / 再仕込み>

If translated in my definition, sai-shikomi means “double-matured”. It is taken double-long period for maturing process. The flavor is thick as Tamari is. Sai-shikomi shoyu is suitable for stew or other cooking way of long time, as the flavor remains even after heating for long minutes. The secret way of enjoy Sai-shikomi shoyu is to put it on top of “ice cream” 

Can you believe that? if no, let's just try it 

<Tamari / 溜 >

Tamari is thicker and more viscous than Koikuchi type. It is produced with lower ratio of salt water and higher ratio (4 times amout of wheat) of soy beans. Inspite of the thick flavor, it is less in salt. The rich flavor of Tamari shoyu is well macthed with meat and lean fish like tuna.

 

More than a half of shoyu consumption is produced at large factories by major shoyu producers, while over a thousand of small shoyu makers are scattered across Japan.

My shoyu teacher Mr. Mantaro Takahashi introduces tens of traditional and hand-made shoyu producers on his website, Shokunin Shoyu (職人醤油, Shoyu Masters). These shoyu selections are based on his professional knowledge and experiences visited Shoyu studios or factories. These hand-made shoyu can be ordered by 100 ml bottle size through the Shokunin Shoyu website. The website is Japanese version only so far. But Mr. Takahashi welcomes order in English and product shipment out from Japan. Please visit the website if you feel like exploring wide selections of soy sauce made in very traditional ways by great masters.

Website: Shokunin Shoyu 職人醤油

http://www.s-shoyu.com

 

In addition, Shokunin Shoyu selection items are available at some department stores and select-shop in Tokyo.

* Mitsukoshi department Nihombashi Main store

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* Seibu department Ikebukuro 6th floor "be my Gift" corner

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*Cibone Aoyama (Aoyama Bell Commons Basement 1st floor) 

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Fresh vege from Yamagata, Tohoku but at JR Tokyo station ?! - Yudero 191 from Al-Che-Cciano

Al-che-cciano is an Italian restaurant known for feast made with variety of local fresh ingredients, vegetable, pork, seafood and fruits in Shonai (庄内) area, Yamagata (山形) prefecture, Tohoku (東北) region. Of course it is one of restaurants I want to visit one day. 

However just to enjoy a part of the restaurants' essence in Tokyo without traveling to Yamagata by taking journey for a few hours, its small unit opened inside of JR Tokyo Station! It is called "Yudero 191 from Al-Che-Cciano". "Yudero" sounds for us in Japanese, "ゆでろ/Let's boil! " , though I am not sure why the chef Mr. Masayuki Okuda named it so.

The restaurant situated in a commercial area inside of JR Tokyo station, Gransta Dining on the first floor. The interior of the restaurant implies countryside of Yamagata and fresh foods produced there.

 

The meals on the menu is Italian and for almost all dishes, fresh ingredients from Yamagata are used. The side dish salad is not an exception. Benihana (べに花, Sufflower), Zuiki potato chips, apple, radish, garlic chips are made up of a colorful salad plate.

Here alcohol drink to have is fresh Japanese Sake (日本酒), not Italian wine! I ordered the one by glass called "Mi-ciu-ran"(水酒蘭). The original brand produced by the restaurant Al-Che-Cciano sounds like "Michelin" and natural water taken at the restaurant site is used for the production. The taste is fresh and a bit sweet. It can be taken as alternative option of white wine. 

The main dish plate includes pasta with gobo (ごぼう, burdock) sauce, ox tongue stew, Asatsuki leek sautee.

   

The concept, fresh ingredients from Yamagata, spreads to the dessert menu.

What I ordered is ice cream in "Tsuki no shizuku no shio"(月の雫の塩) flavor. "Tsuki no shizuku no shio" (meant "salt drops from the moon") is originally produced salt brand by the restaurant as well. The name itself fascinates dinner for romantic mood... 

The small pot of salt "Tsuki no shizuku no shio" is on all tables with a message, which encourages guests to put some pieces on their plate, because the restaurant uses salt at minimum level on their cooking process. The plates are appreciated to wide range of people who like less-salty food or love rich taste. Up to you.

Of course the menu offered are changed season by season. It's worth trying different pasta plates time by time. Why don't you try Yamagata's famous specialty "inside" of JR Tokyo station ? just before you leave for Kyoto, Osaka or any other destination.

 

Restaurant name: Yudero 191 Al-Che-Cciano

Location: JR Tokyo Station 1st floor, Gransta Dining

Al-Che-Cciano website (Japanese only) - http://www.alchecciano.com/ 

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Cafe Haiti - Remember Haiti after a year from the earthquake

The Central American country is still struggling for the serious damage from the 7.0 earthquake, which led to other challenges, mounds of rubble, spreading poverty, outbreak of cholera, political unstability...

Check BBC report: Haiti earthquake: One year on

Even after other disasters on this planet, we are not able to forget Haiti and its nationals for recoveing from the catastrophe happened on the 12th January 2010.

Here in Tokyo, we have Haitian restaurant called "Cafe Haiti". It has 4 units in central Tokyo including two in Shinjuku. Haiti style curry is its most known specialty but I also like the chicken cream stew "Poulet blanche" with tomato pilaf.

 

Other speciality of the restaurant is local style COFFEE. The country produces high quality coffee beans as its neighbours Cuba or Jamaica does. The restaurant imports coffee beans directly from a producer in Haiti. It is served with a bottle of "rhum". Yes, the amber color liquid in a glass bottle is not maple syrup or honey but it is alcohol.  Be careful and put just a spoonful of it into a cup of coffee!

 

If you like more alcohol,it also offers selections of cocktail made with the rhum.

The all four units of Haiti restauants are decorated with folk art and objects from the country. They create the tropical atmosphere in the dining space at Tokyo, on th other side of the globe.

 

 

Enjoy food from Haiti and do not forget making a donation at the end of your meal for local people in Haiti. The restaurant place a donation box for relief of the earthquake victims.

 *** Location updated on 3rd September, because of some units closure ***

Above photos were taken at Shiodome branch which has been closed. The atomosphere is surely similar with below Second unit in Shinjuku and some franchaise cafes.

 

Restaurant Name: Cafe Haiti

Address and location:

Shinjuku "Second unit"

Address: B1 Minami-Shinjuku Central building,

                    2-11-12 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, 

 It is 6 minutes walk from JR Shinjuku station South exit along Koshu-Kaido (a main road)

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Butaman (豚まん, pork bun) 551 HORAI (551 蓬莱), Osaka

One of my favourite foods in Osaka, the capital of West Japan, is Butaman (豚まん, pork bun) from 551 Horai (551 蓬莱). Pork bun may be a typical Chinese food but the 551 brands along with its speciality; Butaman is an icon of Osaka. The simple and unpretentious food with packed pork filling inside the large size bun (almost a palm size) could represent mentality of Osaka people…dislike snob and put importance on what they really can get.

 

Butaman by 551 Horai costs only Yen160 per piece (sold by 2pieces or more). The hand-made butaman is sold exclusively at Osaka and surrounding area. Apart from some special promotion occasions, it is not available even in Tokyo. So for us based in East Japan, Butaman is an appreciated gift from Osaka.

 

By the way, we wonder why the brand name is called 551 Horai, as it sounds unique. As per the official home page of 551 Horai, over a half century ago, the founder of Chinese food service company Horai (in Chinese, represents Shangli-la) took the idea from his cigarette brand “555”. The brand name with numbers can be easily remembered and recognizable even from foreign people, unlike name in Japanese or Chinese letters. Taken from the last 3 digit of its phone number at that time and from sounds like ko-ko-ichiban (here the number 1, in Japanese), it is named as 551 (go-go-ichi).

The Chinese food service company sells other Chinese dim-sum foods as well.

Let’s find the number 551 in Osaka!

 

551 Horai official website: http://www.551horai.co.jp

The main store and restaurant

Address: 3-6-3 Namba, Chuo-ku, Osaka  (shopping district of Namba)

 

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******************  Find accommodation in Japan  ***************

OSAKA / NARA / SAPPORO / TAKAYAMA / TOKYO/YUFUIN 

YAKUSHIMA / NOZAWA ONSEN / NISEKO / NIKKO /

HIROSHIMA / MATSUMOTO / KYOTO / KANAZAWA / ISHIGAKI ISLAND /

HAKUBA / FURANO / BEPPU /

 

Peach wine from Katsunuma Koshu (桃ワイン 甲州勝沼より)

A Happy New Year 2011!

 

Celebrate a new year with a glass of nice alcohol drink must be similar in almost everywhere around the world. In my case, here we have a bottle of “Peach Wine”(桃ワイン). That is made by a winery in the most known wine region of Japan, Koshu Katsunuma (甲州　勝沼), Yamanashi (山梨).

The wine is made from 100% peach juice from the Yamanshi region also being proud of high quality fresh peach. Apart from 4 % of alcohol and slightly sparkling bubbles in the wine, the taste is really like fresh peach juice, rich fruits flavour but not too sweet.  The bottle cap with a wired stopper also makes us believe that it is peach juice rather than wine. 

The winery produced the Peach Wine only 8000 bottles. I hope I can get one more bottle but it seems to be sold out already…

Let’s wait another chance to find it! Anyway it was a good opportunity to know an interesting unique product from the Japanese winery, Koshu Katsunuma.

The producer winery Fujiclair usually offers normal wine made from grapes from red wine to sparkling one. They are all limited number of production. It also welcomes winery visit in Katsunuma Koshu.

 

Official website of Fujiclair (Japanese version)

http://www.fujiclairwine.jp

Winery address: 2770-1 Shimoiwasaki, Katsunuma-cho, Koshu-city, Yamanashi

 

 

 

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